Nail Care Tips & Advice

Taking care of a dog or cat involves more than providing food, shelter, love and affection. Pets also have grooming needs that are paramount for helping them maintain both their looks and their health. One area that pet owners tend to overlook involves nail trimming. This is not something that requires a trip to the groomer. If you want to do it at home, rest assured, you can. If you want to make sure your pet’s nails are trimmed as often as they should be, it does pay to learn to do it yourself.

Why Should You Trim Their Nails?

Many pet owners think a monthly trip to the groomer is enough to keep their pet’s nails neatly trimmed. This is not the case and it can become a pricey monthly expense.

To do it yourself, remember that your dog or cat’s nails should be trimmed weekly. If your pet’s nails are not properly trimmed, a number of problems can arise. Some of the top reasons to learn the right techniques include:

Comfort – When a dog or cat’s claws are allowed to grow too long, they can get in the way of comfort. Particularly long claws can make it very difficult and even painful for your dog to walk. Health – Serious problems with walking can develop when a dog or cat is made to walk on claws that are too long for a lengthy period of time. Preventing Damage – When a dog or cat’s nails are too long they sometimes have a propensity to leave claw marks behind while playing. This may also happen when your pet jumps on the furniture or paws at the doors. Keeping them neat and trim can help on this front.

Selecting the Right Tools of the Trade

When it is time to trim your pet’s nails, it is important to have the right tools. This can help ensure a faster, cleaner job. There are two main options to consider:

Regular clippers – Most pet stores and veterinarian offices sell special clippers for cutting claws quickly and evenly. These work well for dogs that are generally calm when their nails are being trimmed. When used correctly, they get the job done right and they are fast to use. The problem is they are not easy to use. Filing tools – Some pet owners find that clippers scare their pets or make them uncomfortable. If this is the case, you might want to consider using a specialized filing tool. There are special grinders that are made for trimming canine and feline claws. In fact, this is often the best choice for those who want to make sure their pet’s nails are trimmed perfectly every time.

Getting the Job Done

Once you decide how you want to trim your pet’s claws, it is time to begin trimming your pet’s nails. There is a basic process to follow to make sure he is happy and safe during this process. To tackle the job right, try these tips:

Inspect before a trim – Claws to have blood vessels in them. You want to be careful not accidently cut this blood vessel. Before you pull out the trimmer, inspect claws to make sure they are long enough to warrant a cut. Pay attention to how much needs to be cut before you attempt using the trimmers. Hold the animal tight – Once you know how much needs to be cut, make sure to hold your dog down firmly, but comfortably. You do not want him to move when you are trimming. Cut away from the quick line – Place the clippers on the part of the claw that does not have a visible vein.

To help you and your pet along with the process, remember you can:

Go slowly – If your pet gets uncomfortable, stop. You do not have to trim every claw right away. Go for one paw and come back for more when you are both ready. Have an emergency kit ready – If you cut your pet’s quick, do not panic. An emergency kit including baby powder or even flour can be used. Apply the powder to the claw and grab a cloth to staunch the bleeding. It will stop shortly. If you are using a specialized grinder to trim nails, you should not have to worry about a bleeding problem. This is one of the benefits of using this type of device instead of regular clippers.

Keeping your pet happy and healthy does involve some maintenance, patience and hard work. In the end, it is all worth it because your pet should be happy and healthy since their nails are more comfortable. Keep up with your pet’s nails on a regular basis and your pet will be very comfortable.

Be prepared to spend up to a half hour daily during shedding season for Golden Retriever grooming sessions. For feathery-coated dogs, it can take a half hour daily just to prevent the matting to which the dog is prone. Both types of Golden Retriever, the smooth-coated and the feathery-coated, will shed and are prone to matting and hot spots.

Hot spots are an irritated skin condition for which you must regularly check your dog’s skin. Since Golden Retriever grooming is so important to your dog’s health and comfort, you have to start grooming puppies with good grooming supplies. This way, you can introduce and familiarize the puppy with the Golden Retriever grooming supplies.

It takes thirty minutes to thoroughly brush your pet. You can control the amount of hair that is shed in your home with regular Golden Retriever grooming. A smooth-coated dog needs one thorough grooming session a week. A feathery-coated Golden Retriever may need daily grooming depending on the amount of matting that is present.

Matting should be cared for immediately through proper grooming. For some feathery-coated Retrievers, resting for long periods can produce a mat. The typical locations for matting are the ears, rear, tail and feathery sections. For dogs with feathering, a mat problem can result overnight.

A mat will enlarge by pulling in nearby hair into itself. This can produce painful spots that are prone to irritation. Wetting the mat worsens the condition by pulling the hair tighter. Mats are inviting hiding spots for fleas. Regular Golden Retriever grooming must be performed regularly to avoid matting problems.

There are several Golden Retriever grooming supplies that will help with mats. A mat should be gently combed out with a wide toothed comb. Problem mats can be removed safely and gently with mat breakers. A hair detangling formula or oil can help with detangling a mat. Trimming the feathering or cutting the mat may be necessary. Use rounded scissors to prevent any accidents during grooming.

Regular brushing is a part of correct grooming. You can choose two main brushes for your Golden Retriever grooming supplies needs.

The slicker brush is versatile. The wide head and short bristles, set wide, are useful for shedding and regular brushing of smooth and feathered coats. The pin brush has longer pins, set wide, is useful for brushing feathered portions. The pin brush will reduce shedding as well. Regular brushing will remove any particles and dirt from the coat.

Brush your dog thoroughly before a bath or wetting the coat. Tangles tighten with water. A vegetable oil or detangle solution can help to detangle tangles. Avoid too much bathing or using detergent based shampoo because of undercoat fall out or skin irritation. Brush dirt from the underside and legs for spot cleaning and wet as necessary.

Use a flea comb to detangle mats and check the skin for hot spots or other irritated spots. Clip the nails when necessary. Check and clean the nails and ears once a week. Include all these Golden Retriever grooming tasks in your grooming plan to maintain your dog’s health.

Grooming your dog is an essential and rewarding part of ownership. Although many people are familiar with grooming basics, such as removing tangles and shampooing. There are many benefits you may not have thought about before.

The first thing is grooming is not just for improving the look of your dog’s coat. There are many health benefits as well when done regularly:

1. Grooming takes away dead hair and skin. It not only removes an unsightly and unwanted mess, it improves air circulation to your dog’s coat. This is essential in the summertime when it’s hot and humid.

2. You’ll also find that grooming increases the blood flow to hair follicles, which will improve the health of your dog’s whole coat.

3. It stimulates the lymphatic system, similar to the results a human would get from a deep tissue massage. We humans know how good that feels.

4. Another benefit of grooming, it will put your dog in a great mood. Combine this with your gentle voice and you’ll be helping to strengthen the bond between you.

5. A benefit many people don’t think about is that you will become more familiar with your dog’s body. You will be able to detect many health problems before these become serious issues.

6. Make sure that you brush and check every part of your dog. This includes their ears, eyes, coat and skin. Finding ticks or other insects attached to your dog can be extremely serious even deadly, so keep an eye out for these freeloaders.

7. While you’re at it, clip their nails. This gives you a chance to check the pads of their feet, noting any problems.

If you don’t have the essential tools or materials, no worry they can be found at your local pet supply stores. If you would rather shop online there are many sites that offer the equipment for sale as well, an added bonus to online shopping is most provide a lot of great information and advice.

If your interested in learning more, check your local community college, they may offer a program to teach dog owners how to groom.

You may find that you enjoy it so much you move beyond the basics and become an excellent groomer, you might think about starting your own service. Many pet owners don’t have the time to groom their dogs themselves, but know it is a necessity. Turn your passion into dollars as you groom others’ pets.

Providing this service could become a part time or even full time business venture. Either way, as a business or just personal satisfaction you will be confident knowing your own dog is being properly cared for. Set aside a regular brushing grooming appointment time, you’ll be surprised to find how quickly you best friend will learn this scheduled appointment and be anxiously awaiting.

Begin when they’re puppies; many rewards go hand in hand with grooming, so start as soon as possible.

It’s a very exciting day when you first pick up your puppy. It seems obvious that you’ll have to feed her, and give her lots of love – but what else is involved in keeping your puppy healthy? A lot. That’s the simple answer. So lets start from the beginning.

You should never take a puppy away from her mother too early – anything much under 8 weeks is really not giving a dog a best chance in life. Sometimes the puppies in pet shops come from their mothers at six weeks – and in that case they won’t have the full immunity given by the mother’s milk.

You should always take your puppy to the vet for a checkup when you first purchase her. You need to have her ears checked, and her nose should be wet and not runny. Her eyes should be clear. Assuming all of that is good, then your vet may explain the two main issues with your pup – vaccinations and flea control.

Depending on where you live, and the laws in your state, the vaccinations required will differ, but sometimes your puppy will need a series of vaccinations and won’t be ready to be fully socialized until 12 weeks old. Do not take your puppy to play with adult dogs if you are not sure the adult dog has been vaccinatied.

Once your puppy has been vaccinated then you need to make an annual trip to the vet to keep the vaccination up to date. Many boading kennels won’t take dogs unless this is the case, so if you plan on having a holiday away from your pets at any stage, it will be vital to keep the vaccinations current.

Flea and tick control, and the control of heartworm will all depend on the weather of the state you live in. It’s hard to give accurate advice to every puppy owner but asking any dog owner in your local dog park will probably be your best bet. You’ll need to know how often they use products that kill or prevent fleas from living on your puppy.

Some dogs will also have allergies – to grass, or to flea bites so you will need to see if your dog scratches too often, or is chewing at parts of her fur. If you start to see bald patches then you may need your vet to do allergy testing. In this case flea control is probably even more important.

If you can have a dog groomer teach you how to care for your dog too. You need to know how to keep the coat healthy, the nails trimmed and the ears of your puppy clean too. Feeding good quality dog food is vital for a healthy life.

There are a few other things you shouldn’t forget as well – never letting your puppy near traffic, having a fully fenced in yard, and even consider microchiping – if it’s not legally required it’s a great way to make sure your beloved pet will always be returned to you if she gets lost

Although it’s often overlooked, grooming is an important part of your dog’s health and wellness program. Here are some of the most frequently asked dog grooming questions our experts at PetPlace.com are asked by their 600,000 visitors per month:

1. When should I start grooming my dog?

Start regular grooming when you first bring your dog home and make it a part of his or her routine. Purchase a good-quality brush and comb and get your dog used to being handled. Praise your dog when he or she holds still and soon he or she will come to enjoy the extra attention. Some breeds have special grooming needs, so ask your vet or a professional groomer for advice on particular grooming equipment necessary for your particular dog.

2. How often should I brush my dog’s hair?

Routine brushing and combing removes dead hair and dirt and prevents matting, while giving your pet a healthier and shinier coat.

Your dog’s skin and hair coat reflects his or her overall health and nutritional status. Many dogs maintain a healthy skin and hair coat with minimal assistance. Some long-haired or curly-haired breeds require regular brushing. For most dogs, a good brushing once or twice a week will do the trick.

3. How often should I bathe my dog?

Your dog’s need for bathing depends on its breed, the skin type and hair coat. It also depends on the owner’s preference and how dirty your dog gets. Bathing your dog every month or two isn’t unreasonable, but some dogs will need more frequent cleanings. A good rule of thumb is to bathe your pet only when the coat gets dirty or begins to smell “doggy.”

When bathing your dog, make sure to rinse all the soap out of the coat. If there are persistent problems with scratching or flaky skin, he or she may need a special medicated shampoo or have a skin problem that your veterinarian should examine.

4. What skin problems are common among dogs and what should I look for?

Skin problems – including fleas, ticks and mites or allergies and infections – are common among dogs. Most conditions are manageable with early detection and treatment. If you notice excessive scratching, hair loss or flaky skin, contact your veterinarian. If your pet is continuously exposed to fleas and ticks, speak to your veterinarian about products to minimize the parasite’s impact on your dog’s skin. Remember that consistently poor hair coat with lots of skin flaking may indicate a deeper medical problem.

5. I have problems cleaning my dog’s ears. What’s the best way to clean his ears and how often should it be cleaned.

Ears also require cleaning, especially in dogs with oily skin or allergies. This is a delicate task and is probably best left to your vet. However, if your dog is easy to handle (and there is no chance that you will be bitten), you can learn to do this chore yourself. To remove excessive wax and debris from the ears, consider an ear cleaning every two to four weeks. Ask your veterinarian about products you can use at home, and be sure to ask for a demonstration of proper ear cleaning techniques.

6. I have problems keeping my dog still so I can trim its nails. Do you have any nail trimming advice?

While clipping nails is a painless and simple process, it takes practice and patience to master the skill. When you muster enough courage to trim the nails of your dog, you’ll need a good nail clipper, a nail file to rub any sharp edge away and a styptic stick to stop any subsequent bleeding easily.

Ask your vet to show you the correct technique, and then get started by getting your pet used to having his or her paws handled. Once you start using the clippers, go slowly. Try clipping just a few nails in one sitting. Maintain a regular schedule and be persistent. Your pet will eventually develop patience and learn to cooperate.

7. What is the most important thing to include in my dog grooming kit?

The most important thing required in your grooming kit is your own confidence. It will form and take shape within you and grow in time.

So, go ahead and start grooming your dog. If you can overcome your hesitation, beautiful and rewarding experiences are waiting for you. Grooming your dog properly helps to keep him or her healthy while building an important bond between you and your pet.

This article is from My Family UK.

Grooming is essential in long-haired pets to prevent fur matting, and can be a great way to bond with furry pets of all varieties. Grooming also provides a good opportunity to check the overall health of your pet.

Care

Grooming is a necessary part of caring for any pet, but it can also indicate a range of health problems that your pet will not be able to warn you about. Look out for lumps and bumps and signs of fur loss, fleas or other parasites.

As well as grooming, some pets also need to be bathed and to have their nails trimmed. Check with your vet about the care regime your pet will need, and get your vet or pet groomer to show you how to trim your pet’s nails. Trimming nails can be a tricky task and may result in pain and injury for the animal if not done properly.

1) Start them young

To prevent unnecessary distress, it is best to get your pet used to being groomed at a young age. Do it for short periods at first, stop if your pet shows signs of stress and comfort your pet by stroking it and using a soothing tone of voice.

2) Brushes and combs

A wide variety of different brushes and combs are available for grooming your pet, and what you should use depends on your pet’s fur type so consult a vet or animal groomer. See below for the basics.

Brushes – come with different kinds of bristle, each suited to a different kind and length of fur Combs and rakes – good at removing tangles, loose fur and debris, rakes are more heavy-duty combs for pets with thick double coats Rubber grooming gloves and brushes – for shorter-haired dogs, can be used to massage the dog’s coat instead of brushing Trimmers clippers and scissors – for trimming fur or cutting out mats and knots

3) Grooming your pet

Depending on your pet’s species, breed and fur type, it will need different levels of attention. Read on for grooming tips for common pets.

Dogs

Grooming – all dogs, especially longer-haired varieties, will need regular grooming Directions – use brushes suitable to the hair type of your breed Bathing – all dogs will need bathing, with more attention for longer-haired breeds Nails – may need trimming

Cats

Grooming – most cats are content to look after their own fur, but even shorter haired varieties will enjoy the attention of grooming Bathing – not necessary unless you want to show your cat Nails – claws may need trimming if they fail to retract (i.e. if they are still visible when the cat is resting)

Small furry pets

Grooming – needed for long-haired varieties, get them used to being handled first Directions – use a soft toothbrush to groom smaller pets such as hamsters. With rabbits brush the coat gently with a stiff-bristled brush in the same direction as the fur grows Bathing – long-haired guinea pigs will need the occasional bath Nails – rabbits and guinea pigs’ nails may need trimming

Further Information

For further information, and for more great ways to have fun with your family, log on to www.myfamilyuk.com. With a huge collection of articles covering everything from child safety to rainy day activities, you’ll find all the help, guidance and entertainment you need to be a great parent. Go to My Family UK now!

Your ferrets care is one of the most important things you can do for your ferret. Although they may be small your ferrets care will have to become a routine for you. They will require teeth brushing, hair grooming, nail care, ear cleaning and bathing to name a few. Even though ferrets will groom themselves that in not enough for them to keep them healthy and feeling their best. These 4 basic steps to grooming are maybe the most important for your ferrets care depending on their needs: 1. Ferrets Care: Brushing your ferrets teeth It is recommended you should brush your ferret’s teeth weekly I brush mine 1-2 times weekly. How you feed your ferret should be taken into consideration – if your ferrets eat softer food they will need their teeth brushed more often, definitely every week. Where as crunchy harder dry food is a little more stable for your ferrets teeth and will only need to be brushed once every week or to two. The first few brushing will take longer and probably be a little traumatic for your ferret, but with some patience they will adjust to it. I use a pet toothbrush and toothpaste. I start at the back and rub at the back of their jaw and top of the neck to cause the yawn a quickly get all the back molars while the ferrets yawning and then work a little slower up to the canines and incisors. Try to pay careful attention and you may need to make them yawn again to get those molars, it is where the tatter and plaque build up the majority of the time. See a ferret cannot reach that fare back with their tongue and efficiently clean those teeth. Even brushing regularly, ferrets will need to get professional cleaning but the better you do the longer you can be pushed off. Vets recommend it every one to three years and like I said the better you do longer there will between cleanings $$$. 2. Ferrets Care: Cleaning your ferrets Ears You should set up a weekly schedule for your ferrets care and cleaning the ears of your ferret should be on it because if you do clean them AND INSPECT them you will prevent infection, as well as ear mites and the dreaded odor. Use an ear cleaning solution that your vet recommends. It takes just a few drops; try to warm the bottle in your hand before you put the drops in your ferret’s ears. You should gently massage the base of the ear and below to work the solution into the ear canal. This loosens any accumulated wax never put a q-tip into the ear canal, but you can use a q-tip to clean up the outer part of the ear. You may need to do this more then once, so until the ear is clean continue to work the q-tips. When your ferret have ear wax that’s dark red-colored or black, you should call your vet – this is a strong indicator of ear mites and if left untreated it could cause deafness. 3. Ferrets Care: Clipping Your Ferrets Nails Ferret’s should have their nails clipped every other week and I go as far as clipping the front every week in the ferrets care schedule, other wise they could snag and rip off the nail. Okay just from experience make sure too get everything together: a. Clippers – You can use ferret or cat clippers b. Styptic powder – Just in case you hit the quick the pink vein c. Ferretone – This will distract your ferret as you clip the nails Hold your ferret in your lap on his back give him a shot of ferretone on his belly. Know clip quickly when you clip always make the clip parallel to the ground. This can be done easily if you always hold the clippers against the pad of the foot. 4. Ferrets Care Bathing your Ferret My friends will come to me and say Brandon can I over bath a ferret? They seem surprised when I tell them yes it can cause dry skin, which makes them itchy and uncomfortable and this will actually cause an odor due to an over-productive oil glands. Now after this happens people think they need to give their ferret more baths, which causes the snowball effect, and your poor ferret suffers for it. You should use a ferret shampoo that is pH balanced to help maintain their skin. The other thing to remember is when filling their bath: a. They have a core temp of 102 degrees Fahrenheit so make their bath a little warmer then for a cat (cats temp 100.5and dogs 100.5 to 102) b. Be careful not to get water in the ears, it can cause an infection c. Water, when your ferret is standing on all four and its head should be out of the water. d. Shampoo should be rinsed out thoroughly if not it may cause your ferrets skin to dry out. e. To dry your ferret use a towel to dry him; He will be damp, lay him down on a towel that is bunched- up, he will finish they will finish the job themselves. Your ferrets should be just about show ready now, but they should be the happiest and best-groomed ferrets around! And that is your ferrets care 101 class.

Your ferrets care is one of the most important things you can do for your ferret. Although they may be small your ferrets care will have to become a routine for you. They will require teeth brushing, hair grooming, nail care, ear cleaning and bathing to name a few. Even though ferrets will groom themselves that in not enough for them to keep them healthy and feeling their best. These 4 basic steps to grooming are maybe the most important for your ferrets care depending on their needs:

1. Ferrets Care: Brushing your ferrets teeth

It is recommended you should brush your ferret’s teeth weekly I brush mine 1-2 times weekly. How you feed your ferret should be taken into consideration – if your ferrets eat softer food they will need their teeth brushed more often, definitely every week. Where as crunchy harder dry food is a little more stable for your ferrets teeth and will only need to be brushed once every week or to two. The first few brushing will take longer and probably be a little traumatic for your ferret, but with some patience they will adjust to it. I use a pet toothbrush and toothpaste. I start at the back and rub at the back of their jaw and top of the neck to cause the yawn a quickly get all the back molars while the ferrets yawning and then work a little slower up to the canines and incisors. Try to pay careful attention and you may need to make them yawn again to get those molars, it is where the tatter and plaque build up the majority of the time. See a ferret cannot reach that fare back with their tongue and efficiently clean those teeth. Even brushing regularly, ferrets will need to get professional cleaning but the better you do the longer you can be pushed off. Vets recommend it every one to three years and like I said the better you do longer there will between cleanings $$$.

2. Ferrets Care: Cleaning your ferrets Ears

You should set up a weekly schedule for your ferrets care and cleaning the ears of your ferret should be on it because if you do clean them AND INSPECT them you will prevent infection, as well as ear mites and the dreaded odor. Use an ear cleaning solution that your vet recommends. It takes just a few drops; try to warm the bottle in your hand before you put the drops in your ferret’s ears. You should gently massage the base of the ear and below to work the solution into the ear canal. This loosens any accumulated wax never put a q-tip into the ear canal, but you can use a q-tip to clean up the outer part of the ear. You may need to do this more then once, so until the ear is clean continue to work the q- tips. When your ferret have ear wax that’s dark red-colored or black, you should call your vet – this is a strong indicator of ear mites and if left untreated it could cause deafness.

3. Ferrets Care: Clipping Your Ferrets Nails

Ferret’s should have their nails clipped every other week and I go as far as clipping the front every week in the ferrets care schedule, other wise they could snag and rip off the nail. Okay just from experience make sure too get everything together:

a. Clippers – You can use ferret or cat clippers

b. Styptic powder – Just in case you hit the quick the pink vein

c. Ferretone – This will distract your ferret as you clip the nails

Hold your ferret in your lap on his back give him a shot of ferretone on his belly. Know clip quickly when you clip always make the clip parallel to the ground. This can be done easily if you always hold the clippers against the pad of the foot.

4. Ferrets Care Bathing your Ferret

My friends will come to me and say Brandon can I over bath a ferret? They seem surprised when I tell them yes it can cause dry skin, which makes them itchy and uncomfortable and this will actually cause an odor due to an over-productive oil glands. Now after this happens people think they need to give their ferret more baths, which causes the snowball effect, and your poor ferret suffers for it. You should use a ferret shampoo that is pH balanced to help maintain their skin. The other thing to remember is when filling their bath:

a. They have a core temp of 102 degrees Fahrenheit so make their bath a little warmer then for a cat (cats temp 100.5and dogs 100.5 to 102)

b. Be careful not to get water in the ears, it can cause an infection

c. Water, when your ferret is standing on all four and its head should be out of the water.

d. Shampoo should be rinsed out thoroughly if not it may cause your ferrets skin to dry out.

e. To dry your ferret use a towel to dry him; He will be damp, lay him down on a towel that is bunched- up, he will finish they will finish the job themselves.

Your ferrets should be just about show ready now, but they should be the happiest and best-groomed ferrets around! And that is your ferrets care 101 class.

The birth of a husky puppy often brings great joy into the family. This lively and mild-tempered dog simply makes a great family pet. As in the case of dogs of various breeds, husky puppies require proper care in order to grow healthily into adults. Negligence or improper care would often lead to poor health and in extreme cases, death. We provide you with some tips on giving your husky puppy the proper care.

Perhaps one of the most important things you should note about giving your husky puppy the proper care would be to take it for regular checkups at your local vet. Regular, scheduled checkups are necessary for the healthy development of husky puppies. Your vet would be able to provide you with valuable advice on raising your husky puppy into a healthy adult such as providing you suggestions on how to modify your husky puppy’s diet for the better. Also, regular checkups provide a form of prevention against any diseases that may be contracted by the husky puppy. As in all cases, dog-related illnesses are best cured if detected at an early stage.

Husky puppies also require a healthy, well-balanced diet. The first thing to note in this case would be to watch out for overfeeding. Overfeeding and corresponding lack of exercise is often the cause of obesity amongst husky puppies. Instead, choose a well-balanced diet which should ideally consist of fish and white meat. Freshly prepared dog food is also preferable as compared to commercially available ones. For your husky puppies, remember to cut food into small pieces to aid the process of chewing and digestion. Husky puppies also need fish oil in their diet in order to develop a healthy coat of fur and nails. This could take the form of canned sardines which are known to contain substantial amounts of Omega 3.

The husky is a dog that thrives on companionship. Leave them alone and you will find your furniture wrecked or your garden filled with portholes. You could get a companion for your husky puppy by either choosing another husky puppy or another animal such as a cat. In any case, it would be ideal to introduce this companion to your husky puppy at a young age in order to improve familiarization. Generally, huskies are mild tempered dogs and would usually be able to get along well with other pets around your house.

You should also give your husky puppy sufficient exercise. After all huskies are lively dogs and require lots of wide open space and fresh air. Exercise could take the form of a simple walk around the park, or even a game of “tag” or with a Frisbee for the more active at heart. Insufficient exercise would often lead to obesity as well as other health-related problems. Moreover, exercise is a great way to building up good owner-pet relations. It makes your husky grow more affectionate and attached to you.

It is important to make the effort to provide your husky puppies with the necessary care. Ability to do so will guarantee healthy growth of your husky puppy in time to come as well as many years of satisfaction in the future.

Have you ever considered giving your cat a bath? Your dog and cat both require a certain amount of maintenance to keep them happy and healthy. While most cats are self-sufficient, all cats could use a little boost in the bathing department.

When it comes to cat care, very few cat owners think to give their cat a bath. A bath can help get rid of excess fur during the shedding season.

You could take your cat to the veterinarian or a professional groomer and have them give your cat a bath, but giving your cat a bath on your own isn’t all that difficult. As long as you have patience and take things slowly, the two of you can get through the ordeal in one piece.

Before you think of bathing, give your cat a good brushing. Use a soft brush or grooming glove for short haired felines. For cats with longer fur, use a wide-toothed comb. Don’t brush too hard. Cats don’t have very thick skin like their wild cousins, the big cats.

Brush out any tangles and check the cat over for any sores or abscesses. Clean the cat’s ears and trim its nails. If your cat starts to get a little antsy, take everything in stages. Start with one task, then put the cat down and come back to the next task later.

While your cat is off wandering the house and working off stress, you can get the bath ready. Make sure you have a soft towel and shampoos made for your cat at hand. Remember that your cat will be licking himself after the wash, and some soaps might have a residue that could make your cat sick if ingested.

If you can, use your kitchen sink as a tub. The sink is much easier to work with than trying to bend over a tub. Place a towel in the bottom of the sink as a mat to keep your cat from slipping. The most important thing is to give your cat a bath in a warm room so that afterwards, he’ll have a warm place to dry off.

When you’re ready to bathe your cat, put cotton balls in its ears to help keep the water out. Run some lukewarm water into the sink, but don’t fill the sink all the way. You might want to fill the sink first, since the sound of the rushing water could make your cat nervous, especially if he knows what’s coming.

Try not to restrain your cat too much either. If the cat feels like it’s being trapped, you’ll have a harder time holding it through this cat care process.

Keep talking to the cat calmly and reassuringly. Don’t yell or try to scold him if he decides not to cooperate. If you’re nervous, your cat will be nervous, too. Hissing, flattened ears and yowling are all signs that you have a very stressed kitty on your hands.

To wet the coat, pour water over your cat. You can also take a thin towel, wrap it around your cat, and wet its fur through the towel. Once the fur is wet, apply shampoo, and then rinse well. When you rinse your cat, try to avoid using the spray nozzle. If your cat didn’t like the sound of running water, the hiss of the spray won’t be calming at all.

Make sure that you get all the shampoo out of its fur. When you’re done rinsing, dry your cat by blotting instead of scrubbing. Blotting long fur is far more effective than rubbing the towel over the cat’s body.

If your cat will tolerate the noise from this cat care routine, you can use a hair dryer on the lowest setting. If you can’t use the dryer, that’s okay. Dry your cat as much as you can and let it go find a warm place to dry off.

The best advice for bathing a cat is to start while the cat is young so that they become familiar with this form of cat care. If you get your cat used to bathing early in life and make the first experience as enjoyable as you can, your cat will be more cooperative in the future.

WOOD

Birds need to chew, wood is an excellent material to satisfy this natural urge. Birds play most often with wood toys. Wooden toys are meant to be destroyed. Some bird owners may be frustrated by the destructive nature of their parrots. However, chewing is a natural instinct and vital to birds mental and physical well-being. If you provide only acrylic toys they will often find other, more expensive ways to satisfy their chewing needs (i.e., molding, furniture). It is important to know what woods are safe for your bird. Both soft and hardwoods are commonly used in toys.

Safe Woods (not a complete list):

Pine, Balsa, Birch, Basswood, Poplar, Maple, Walnut, Ash, Apple, Elm, Cactus (Cholla) and Manzanita

Unsafe Woods (not a complete list):

Cedar, Red Cherry, Plywood. Oak

If you like to make your own toys NEVER use pressure treated wood, it is treated with arsenic and will poison your bird. If using natural branches make sure they have not been exposed to insecticides. Also, take care to collect branches in areas removed from highways where plant life may have absorbed toxic emissions from cars. Scrub all branches with a non-toxic disinfectant (dilute chlorine bleach), rinse and dry thoroughly.

If you need to clean wood toys, don’t soak them. It is best to wipe them clean with a damp cloth or sand the soiled area until clean. If your bird likes to dunk his toys beware that moisture can promote bacterial growth and the toys should either be discarded or thoroughly cleaned and dried in a low temperature oven before returning them to the bird.

Birds are able to distinguish colors therefore color makes wood toys more attractive and interesting to birds. Manufacturers usually color wood with food coloring or vegetable dyes. We don’t believe in flavoring wood as the bird should not be encouraged to ingest the wood and, unless properly controlled, the fruit sugars often used provide a perfect medium for bacterial growth. Do not buy toys that have been stained or varnished to add color. If you are interested in a toy with painted parts (ie, ABC blocks) make sure that only non-toxic, child safe paints were used.

ROPE

Several kinds of rope are used in bird toys. Only 100% natural fiber ropes such as cotton, hemp (jute), or sisal should be used in bird toys. Nylon blend ropes should never be used as they can result in serious injury and cuts due to the strength of the strands if the birds get caught in it. Ropes can be safe as long as they are maintained properly and the bird’s beak and nails are kept trim. There have been safety problems noted when excessive fraying occurs. Birds have choked and lost circulation to legs by getting tangled in ill maintained ropes. Rope toys have proven very beneficial in solving feather picking problems and therefore we don’t like to discount rope as a viable material. Bird owners have a responsibility to check their bird’s rope toys daily and to cut back or discard rope toys when they become frayed and present a hazard to their bird.

CHAIN

Chain should have welded not open links. Un-welded chain provides sharp surfaces and narrow openings which have been known to cut toes. Make sure the links are a safe size for your bird, if toes get caught in the links the result can be broken toes or legs. Chain length is also a consideration as a long length of chain could conceivably end up wrapped around a bird’s neck during a vigorous play session. As the wood components are chewed off, a chain hazard could develop. Owners must monitor the status of toys and ensure that as they physically change safety hazards do not develop.

FASTENERS

This is a crucial area of concern as good fasteners are expensive and therefore many manufacturers cut corners and use potentially unsafe items such as split key rings or dog leash type snap hooks. Birds have been cut and lost circulation to toes and tongues on toys utilizing split rings and spring type clamps. For conures or larger birds we recommend either Quick-links (also sometimes called C-clamps) or Pear links to attach toys to the bird’s play area. They come in a variety of sizes and can be tightened with a wrench easily to prevent the bird from unhooking his toys. This type of fastener provides the least potential for injury. They are available in a variety of sizes and can be purchased from your local hardware store if needed to replace unsafe fasteners from existing toys.

Do not use split key rings, spring loaded clips or metal shower rings to fasten your toys. Small hardware pieces can be ingested accidentally. Birds have cut toes and tongues on split rings and spring type clamps.

ZINC

A lot has been mentioned recently about zinc toxicity in birds. Many bird toys are made with zinc coated (galvanized) metal components. Zinc is also commonly found in cage powder coatings. Some avian health specialists have stated that in order for zinc related health problems to result that the parrot must actually swallow the metal components and that “beaking” the parts is insufficient for toxicity to develop unless the galvanized coating is extremely brittle and flaky. If a bird spends a lot of time chewing on toy hardware (i.e., washers, quick links, wire) then it is possible they will ingest enough zinc to build up toxic levels in their systems over time. Owners who are worried about the possible health effects can often find stainless steel replacement components at their local hardware store. This option is also often much more cost effective to the consumer than buying toys constructed with stainless steel parts.

PLASTICS

Acrylics are used in many toys today and if sized properly to the bird are virtually indestructible. If purchasing acrylic toys we recommend the acrylic have a minimum thickness of 3/16?. Recently, there has been a shift back towards wood toys because although the acrylics are durable and attractive they are also not as fun for the bird who likes to chew. We recommend that a few of your birds toys be acrylic or a blend of acrylic and wood, they will be long lasting and the bright colors used are stimulating to your bird.

When considering toys with plastic components a bird owner must consider the nature of the plastic component (i.e., soft vs. brittle) relative to the size of the bird. Brittle plastics should not be given to larger birds because when they break very sharp, cutting edges are formed and if swallowed accidentally could result in ruptured organs. Hard plastic toys specifically designed for parakeets and cockatiels should not be given to larger birds with the beak power to destroy them.

LEATHER

Leather is a great material for birds to safely play with and chew on. Most birds especially like to spend hours untying knots made in leather strips.

Only vegetable tanned leather should be used on bird toys. Do not buy toys with dyed leather or leather tanned with chemicals as most are toxic to birds (i.e., chromium, formaldehyde). For this reason you should also not retire old shoes, belts and pocketbooks to your birds toy chest.

Replace leather if soiled or wet. Bacteria will flourish under these conditions. Many toy companies will sell replacement leather strips.

When hanging toys strung on leather (or rope or chain), avoid leaving a long strand between the toy and the cage. Some birds when rambunctious with their toys can get the leather wrapped around their necks and strangle. It is best to tie the toy close to the bars of the cage.

RINGS

When choosing toys with rings or large plastic chain links make sure that the rings are of a size that the bird can’t get his head stuck in them and choke. Also beware of toys with multiple rings looped directly together as birds have met similar fates when they have been trapped between the rings.

BELLS

Birds love to make noise and bells provide a fun source for their merrymaking. If a bird is mechanically inclined and can remove the clapper the potential exists for swallowing/choking. Make sure the bell clapper can not be removed by the bird. If it is not securely fastened either remove it or weld it (we recommend silver solder). Make sure the clapper is not lead (toxic), if it is lead you will be able to dent the clapper with your fingernail. Do not buys toys that use jingle type bells, toes can become caught and cut in the wide to narrow openings, we recommend the cow or liberty bell design. Appropriately size the bell to the bird so it will be able to withstand the power of the beak.

FINAL CONSIDERATIONS

Just because the label says the product is safe doesn’t mean that it’s OK for your bird. Any toy has the potential to be unsafe if improperly sized to the bird. Ask your toy vendor or bird store owner for help or advice on choosing a toy appropriate for your bird.

As with kids, no toy is 100% safe for all birds. Use common sense and supervise your bird when you first give him a new toy. Observe how he interacts with the toy to determine how best to hang it and where and when to allow him to play with it (some toys are safer outside the cage).

Provide a wide variety of toys and rotate them in and out of the cage or play area. Variety will help alleviate boredom and keep your bird more alert and curious. Keep 2-3 toys minimum in the birds cage and don’t overstuff the cage so the bird doesn’t have room to move.

Don’t assume that if your bird doesn’t like a toy that it won’t play with any toy. Try something different and take the time to observe what your bird finds interesting in terms of design, texture or size.

Introduce toys to baby birds but make them small…don’t intimidate them. Hand toys are some of the safest toys available and they are especially great for young birds as they help to develop hand-eye coordination.

Play with your bird…most birds think it’s great fun to chase balls across the floor or couch, play “catch” or “pick it up” with mom or dad.

This guide is by no means comprehensive but we have tried to address as many issues as possible. When in doubt, ask for help. We sincerely wish you a long, happy and healthy relationship with your bird.